Camper road trip – Have time, will travel
I’ve got nothing booked this weekend and it’s been a long time since I’ve been to the South Island of New Zealand. Nothing like a spot of last minute travel! I’ve always fancied a motorhome trip so I book a rather large one all for myself.
Saturday
The pick-up point is near Christchurch Airport, that’s easy, so it pickup. I just show the confirmation on the app and minutes later I’m in my fancy Maui camper. Seating for several people converts into a large bed, another converts to a single. It drives like a car with top electronics, navigation, media, and Apple CarPlay. The high seating position and big windows mean you can see twice as much as in a car.
Off the clock, I amble North along the main road. Mid-afternoon I arrive in Kaikoura town. They know what they are doing and there are long camper parks everywhere.
Just before sunset I park up at a friend’s property, and we go straight out to Kaikoura township. Several restaurants and bars make for a surprisingly good nightlife with an eclectic mixture of locals, travelling Kiwis, and lots of foreigners. I volunteer to be the sober driver because I want to get moving early in the morning.
Sunday
I wake early and explore the waterfront, seals and all – Kaihoura is stunning!
Then I head to Mount Lyford via the spectacular Inland Road. Views of the seaward Kaikouras on one side and the inland Kaikouras on the other, The road gains altitude over a couple of hours, till reaching a high plateau where the access road to the mountain starts. I drive up as far as I can, the lovely alpine forest thinning at the closed ski field road. What a view! I have full data reception at the top of the mountain – so I post. The air here is cool, crisp, and refreshing – perfect to stop for a drink and lunch.
Plenty of reception here!
I exit the ski field and explore further. Soon it’s time to stop. I haven’t planned a thing, but I have everything I need. I find an unsealed side road and turn down, the big wheels on the camper make it easy.
The road narrows till it’s barely there anymore, then a river. This is my spot.
I use the built-in BBQ to make a delicious burger.
Soon It’s seven o’clock. The Formula One is on, so with laptop hotspotted to my phone I take advantage of the plentiful mobile data to watch the two-hour race on my own in the pitch black. It’s heaven. While it’s cold, plenty of bedding ensures a great sleep!
Monday
The empty Hamner road is gorgeous. I’m soaking in New Zealand’s famous hot pools within minutes of parking in one of the many camper spaces. An amazing spot with 22 pools with varying temperatures and mineral makeups and a huge kids area with slides. It’s school holidays, and this is a family facility yet if you’re looking for a quieter experience, just find a different pool. After two hours, I retrieve my gear, shower, and head to my camper for dinner.
A Department of Conservation campsite is just up the road. The sun has set by now and Hanmer is in a forest, so the rain and the darkness give a wonderful enclosed feeling as I pull into the well-attended overnight spot. Within minutes, I’m tucked up in bed and have a fabulous sleep.
Tuesday
I wake up to brilliant sunshine and after another soak then I head to the next spot, Maruia Springs in The Lewis Pass.
The scenery is fabulous. All of the autumn colours combine with the dry hills to create a wilderness of great beauty. The road through Lewis Pass winds along the left of increasingly abrupt mountains, the river on the right, then descends to water level, crosses the braided river, and then moves along the right side of the valley.
It’s rare to see a car here – there are more campers than cars.
The roads are excellent, with plenty of places to stop.
After stretching one hour’s travel into three, I arrive at the next hot spring, just after the Lewis Pass peak at 907 metres above sea level. This is the the epitome of wilderness hot springs; yet with plenty of parking and camping available. Exploring the river, I take too many photos. The scenery has changed to that of the distinctly darker lusher West Coast.
Remote, exclusive, quiet. This is a resort! Hewn from the river rocks itself, the water bubbles naturally from below. The pools are small and shallow, for lying down and enjoying the natural beauty. Just four pools here, or five if you count the splash pool, a steam room a sauna, a restaurant, and a bar. A fully developed spa facility, it’s a stunning spot where you could stay for a delicious night or three…
I planned to stay here for the night but instead I drive. If Lewis Pass was amazing in the middle of the day, It’s jaw-dropping at dusk as I drive towards the full moon rising.
I pick a beach just north of Christchurch so I’ll have the benefits of remoteness and proximity to the city. I find my way through pitch-black night and silent roads to a boat ramp at Kairaki.
Wednesday
Drifting slowly awake to the sound of seagulls I peek out my window to the most serene view.
I’ve nailed the positioning, metres from the water on the river estuary. To the left I see breakers, to my right Fishermen dot the river’s edge.
Coffee on the road is a real treasure. Rugged up for the cool air, I sit with a full pot and soak in the scenery, chatting with the passersby as seagulls go about their morning routine.
Soon it’s time to start my final trip. Just 35 minutes to the drop-off facility. It’s easy – I’ve paid for the full-service option with gas refill, a full clean and more. A quick inspection for damage (there is none), and then a cab to the airport!
I leave spare food on the ‘free shelf’ – I love this!
My motorhome journey is done. I’m a man inspired. I’ve travelled before, but never with this level of freedom.
I start planning my next trip….
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What I learned on my camper trip
- Get the extras: A slightly bigger vehicle and full insurance and cleaning etc
- Check In ahead of time
- Download maps and apps before you go.
- Take clothes for hot and cold areas and also a swimsuit
- Take a shopping bag
- Buy food as soon as you can, use Google Maps to find outdoor parking
- A vague plan is all you need.
- Drive slowly, admire the view, stop frequently, never be in a hurry
- The unplanned things on your journey can be the best
- Aim to get to your night spot before sunset, but you’ll be fine either way!
Tim booked his trip through MotorHome Republic and drove a Maui Camper.