Diesel Disruption
Glenn Martens has never been one for subtle entrances. For Diesel’s latest campaign, titled “The Houseguests,” the Belgian creative director has effectively hijacked the high-fashion narrative, replacing the sterile aesthetic of modern luxury with a dinner party that feels like a cinematic fever dream. It is a sharp rejection of “quiet luxury,” swapping out minimalist beige for acid-washed textures and a cast of characters that look like they’ve just emerged from an underground rave.
Since taking the creative helm in 2020, Martens has used the structural expertise he honed at Y/Project to push Diesel back to its roots as a cultural disruptor. He isn’t interested in the safe or the predictable. Instead, he has turned the brand into a playground for experimentation, blending the technical complexity of his couture work for Jean Paul Gaultier with a raw, street-level energy. “The Houseguests” represents the peak of this vision, a voyeuristic look at a group of individuals who find beauty in non-conformity.
The menswear in this collection focuses on a “lived-in” aesthetic that borders on the apocalyptic. At the heart of the drop is hyper-distressed denim. These aren’t standard ripped jeans; Martens employs techniques that leave fabric looking shredded, bleached, and painstakingly reconstructed. The collection features oversized utility jackets with oil-slick finishes and trousers that appear as though they’ve survived years of wear in an industrial yard. It’s a return to heavy-duty DNA, updated with silhouettes that challenge traditional masculine proportions, such as ultra-wide legs and dropped crotches that demand a certain level of confidence to pull off.
The footwear is equally aggressive, featuring chunky soles and textures that mimic oxidised metal or sun-bleached materials. The D-Hammer boot and new sneaker silhouettes continue the industrial theme, looking as if they were forged rather than stitched. The colour palette avoids typical seasonal trends; while classic Diesel indigo is present, it is paired with neon highlights and a range of earthy, grime-flecked neutrals designed for an urban environment.
Martens is advocating for a style that isn’t afraid to look a little messy or worn. In a fashion landscape that often feels sterile and overly curated, this collection insists that clothes should have a pulse and a history. Whether the goal is a statement piece that commands attention or high-durability denim that improves with age, the SS25 collection provides a clear alternative to the mainstream.
