Here We Go… Again
Hungry? The only completely anonymous restaurant reviewer in New Zealand, the Hungry Mr. Wolf, has been eating all over the country finding the best spots for you to dine. Hunting high and hunting low our Mr Wolf is always hungry for an epic dining experience. You never know where he will go next…
Andiamo 194 Jervois Road, Herne Bay, Auckland www.andiamo.co.nz
You could say Andiamo is an Auckland institution. I remember when people flocked to the corner site to sit in the sun wearing their designer sunglasses, sipping on whatever wine was in fashion and gossiping about who’s doing who. Andiamo was in its hay day then, and then it wasn’t. The patrons moved on to newer, flashier establishments and Andiamo became one of those places that you drove past and said, “Oh I haven’t been there for ages”. It was closed and opened as the short-lived Halcyon and the locals were shocked, “What happened to Andiamo?” they cried in unison. You stopped going there, that’s what happened!
Over a year ago it was re-established as Andiamo by Nourish Group, the owners of Euro, Soul Bar and Bistro and the Crab Shack to name a few, and the masses came back. It’s the kind of place you can have a great meal with your family or grab a drink with mates on your way home and sometimes the trendy set can be found dining there too. Andiamo is serving up some delicious fare with friendly, attentive service. But that wine list…I want to say, I don’t mean to be mean, but I do. I appreciate the wonderful international selection, but brands like Roaring Meg have no place on a restaurant list, and multiple listings of the same brands scream contracted and it makes me feel a little bit sad. Including some small but brilliant New Zealand producers would go a long way.
Let’s start with the entrees. I love entrees, smaller plates packed with flavour without the restrictions of a main course. The Crudo of market fish has fresh, well balanced citrus and stone fruit flavours with a hint of heat. The Carpaccio, tender slithers of beef with just the right amount of Parmigiano Reggiano, olive oil and the peppery rush of rocket is wonderful. If meatballs are what you’re craving, you’ve come to the right place. Bursting with flavour, cooked to perfection and served with flawless sauces, I can’t go past a plate or two. I’m not called the Hungry Mr. Wolf for nothing!
The larger plates are pretty great too. I love a good Mac and Cheese and Andiamo’s is verging on sublime, the hit of chili takes it to the next level. The Rigatoni is no ordinary Bolognese. Slow cooked for hours, the veal and pork have reduced to a rich sauce with layers of complexity. My favourite item on the menu is the Veal Chop for 2, a big, juicy pink cut of meat with creamy polenta and anchovy butter, it is a glorious dish! I’ve previously mentioned my obsession with side dishes, at Andiamo the Salty River Farm Leaves are something a little different and I love the refreshing element they bring to a meal. You seriously mustn’t miss the Truffle Fries, who doesn’t love golden fried potato sticks covered in parmesan shavings with the aroma of truffle wafting from the bowl?
I finished with the Tiramisu, which wasn’t the worst I’ve ever had, but wasn’t the best either. The glass of PX sherry made up for it though, more restaurants should stock sherry.
When taking in all that Andiamo has to offer, this place is close to a 5 Thumbs Up, but for me misses the mark on just a few things.
