Spying on Spy Valley

Spy Valley Wines, hidden in Marlborough’s Waihopai Valley, is a zone where the art of winemaking meets a history of international spy networks and covert operations. The true secret though is how a family’s audacious dream transformed challenging terroir into a wine legacy.

While Spy Valley may be a name that evokes images of an MI5 holiday camp, it actually owes its moniker to its proximity to an international satellite communication station. This intriguing neighbour finds the valley’s terroir perfect not just for vines, but for international satellite communication. It’s this blend of mystery and terroir that gives Spy Valley a dose of enigmatic intrigue but there is nothing mysterious about Spy Valley’s absolute focus on winemaking and their connection to the land.

The journey began in the 1990s when Bryan and Jan Johnson, equipped embarked on a mission to conquer the seemingly infertile, arid expanses of the Waihopai Valley. Their operation? To establish 180 hectares of vineyards on land many deemed unsuitable for viticulture. They proved the naysayers wrong though and bottled a pioneering spirit to create one of New Zealand’s most respected family-run wineries, now exporting six varietals to over 35 countries.

The winery’s commitment to the land and the artisans who tend it is mission-critical. Dedicating themselves to nurturing soil and vine to coax out the complexities and nuances of their wines. Their dedication to sustainable practices is also a high priority.

The vineyard’s terroir is a stunning mosaic of young alluvial river terraces and older terraces rich in clay, framed by the dramatic backdrop of the Southern Valleys. With less than 1,100 mm of annual rainfall and a climate that undulates from the risk of spring frosts to the peaks of summer heat, Spy Valley’s terroir is as challenging as it is rewarding.

Yet, Spy Valley is more than its land and vines; it’s about its people, the “secret agents” behind its success. Amanda Johnson of the founding family and the team are the custodians of Spy Valley’s legacy. Their mission: to craft wines that are “impossible to ignore.”

And so far that has not been mission impossible. The 2023 vintage for example is the epitome of innovation and unparalleled collaboration. Despite a smaller yield than previous years, the quality of the fruit remained exceptional, culminating in a harvest that promises vibrant Sauvignon Blancs, nuanced Chardonnays, and intensely coloured Pinot Noirs. And intel reports talk of a new operative: the Echelon Sparkling Rosé, set to debut in 2025. This addition symbolises the winery’s continuous evolution and its quest to push the boundaries.

The Spy Valley dossier wouldn’t be complete without a nod to its accolades. With wines that consistently garner praise from critics and judges alike, the winery’s trophy cabinet or label badge collection as the case might be is a testament to its excellence. From the enviable ratings of its Envoy and Satellite series to the gold medals adorning its flagship Spy Valley label, each award is a decoded message of quality and craftsmanship.

So, pour a glass and let the story of Spy Valley unfold before you – one sip at a time.