Hooked On The New IWC Salmon Dial Portugieser
IWC has recently released a new addition to their classic Portugieser line, in the form of a new 40mm salmon Portugieser 40 Automatic. The talking point of course is the striking salmon dial with a sunburst effect, which is going to widen the hue options for any decent watch collection.
The history of the Portugieser dates back to the 1930s, when two Portuguese businessmen, Rodrigues and Teixeira, approached IWC with a request for a wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. At the time, wristwatches were not accurate enough for navigation, so marine chronometers were used. These were large and expensive instruments that were typically mounted on ships’ decks. To meet this request, IWC fitted a pocket watch movement into a large wristwatch case, resulting in the Portugieser. The first Portugieser, known as the Reference 325, was launched in 1939 and had a 41.5mm case. It featured Arabic numerals, a railroad track minute ring, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The watch was an instant success, and it was particularly popular with seafarers, navigators, and pilots. Over the years, the Portugieser has become a classic in the watch world and is now one of IWC’s most iconic collections.
The Portugieser 40 Automatic released in 2020 is a modern interpretation of the original Portugieser design. It features a 40.4mm case, which is slightly smaller than the original but still has a substantial presence on the wrist. The case is made from stainless steel, and the lugs have a curved design that makes the watch comfortable to wear. The dial is where the Portugieser 40 Automatic really shines. The salmon dial, in particular, is a standout feature. It has a sunburst effect that catches the light beautifully and contrasts nicely with the black small seconds sub-dial and the railroad minute track. The applied Arabic numerals and leaf-shaped hands are elegant and add to the watch’s overall vintage appeal. The watch is finished with a black leather strap that complements the salmon dial perfectly.
At the heart of the Portugieser 40 Automatic is the IWC-manufactured 82200 caliber movement. This automatic movement has a power reserve of 60 hours and a frequency of 4 Hz, making it a reliable and accurate timekeeper. The movement features a bi-directional pawl winding system, which is more efficient than a traditional winding system. The pawls are shaped like the IWC logo and are visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, adding an extra level of visual interest to the watch.
The Portugieser 40 Automatic is a modern classic that pays homage to the original Portugieser design while incorporating modern technology and materials. The watch straddles the line between dress and casual, making it a versatile piece for any occasion.