THE CLASS OF 2026 Watches and Wonders… And a couple of others we couldn’t ignore
Every April, Geneva reminds the rest of the world why it is the capital of watchmaking. Palexpo fills with journalists, retailers and collectors from well over a hundred countries, press releases land at midnight, and the industry collectively lays its cards on the table for the year ahead. Watches and Wonders 2026 was, by every measure, the largest edition in the event’s history. Close to 60,000 visitors passed through across the week, alongside 1,700 journalists and more than 6,000 retailers. That’s up from 55,000 last year, which was itself a record on the 49,000 who attended the year before. The numbers have very nearly doubled in four years.
The official inauguration took place on April 14 at the Palexpo auditorium, where Cyrille Vigneron, President of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation, addressed nearly 300 guests including Geneva political authorities, international press and the CEOs of all 65 exhibiting brands. Vigneron described the event as a platform that balances competition with cooperation, and a cultural actor with a responsibility to nurture and transmit watchmaking to the next generation. Geneva’s State Councillor Nathalie Fontanet put it more directly: this is where tomorrow’s trends take shape. Founded in September 2022 on the initiative of Rolex, Richemont and Patek Philippe, with Chanel, Hermès and LVMH also on the board, the Foundation has built something that now extends well beyond the Palexpo halls – this year including nightly performances at Quai Général-Guisan in partnership with the Montreux Jazz Festival and a city-wide programme that made the whole of Geneva feel like part of the show.
The releases reflected the mood of an industry simultaneously celebrating its past and testing the limits of what it can do next. Rolex marked a century of the Oyster with characteristic restraint. Patek Philippe brought its first wristwatch sunrise/sunset complication to market after five years of development, and revived a museum piece as a functioning automaton. Panerai introduced a case material that has spent most of its career in nuclear reactors. Tudor quietly produced what may be its most interesting watch in years alongside a GMT that makes an unarguable case for the 39mm format.
Two brands in this collection, Blancpain and Omega, did not show at Watches and Wonders 2026. Blancpain’s Villeret Golden Hour update arrived in late 2025, and the Omega releases covered here span the past several months. We are including them anyway. The Villeret is too considered and too well executed to wait for a different feature, and Omega has had a genuinely strong run of releases that deserve to be read alongside the Geneva crowd rather than in isolation. Good watches don’t observe a calendar.
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